Mooka Kinney

I have to admit when worn correctly I adore the new "child-like" trend of the loose unstructured dresses. I draw the line at the one piece shorts-jumper-thingy though, they expose way too much on a grown woman (scroll to middle of the page). Anyway, I was throughly excited to find Mooka Kinney in this weeks WWD. Their collection purposely embraces the inner child with simple shapes, vintage patterns, and cute as a button...buttons. There's always room in life to be a kid, and what's better than being a cute and stylish one! Check out the collection here.

H Fredricksson FW2006

Before I gush about H. Fredricksson, a quick aside...this is one of the most well represented collections in terms of overall styling. I'm sure it helps that Helena is an artist but I can't ever say enough how important styling is when trying to convey a story behind a collection or reaching an audience for that matter. Ok, I'm off the soapbox.
H. Fredricksson remains resolute to her roots as an artist with her signature silkscreened patterns for Fall. My most beloved aspect of the collection is the use of these incredible, understated jewel tones that really offset the typical muted fall pallette of gray and black. See the collection here. P.S. Couldn't resist the photo below...isn't it lovely?

Pura Lopez

Word on the street is that the best pushers don't sample their own goods...sorry guys I saw two seasons of the Wire on HBO and suddenly I think I'm tough. Not that I could be a dealer anyway, these boots are not meant for hopping fences! Anyway....my point is that I'm addicted to Fall accessories and I...want... these...boots. Pura Lopez is behind these beauties with a 3 1/2 inch heel, tonal embriodery, and brass studs. Stay away from the credit card just yet though, I've got more to come in the next few weeks.

Fashion Tribes Mag

I have no shame, I'm excited and that's all there is to it. So Fashion Tribes magazine relaunched and asked moi to write a little snippet for them. So I thought and I pondered and while I was doing that my eyebrows started to overshadow my cheeks. Trying to find a solution that didn't leave me with one seriously overplucked naked brow I found my subject. Check out what I had to say here. Thanks to Lesley for thinking of me, and the few thousand of you (yikes!) that put up with my fashion musings weekly. I promise that's the last Emmy-esque speech you'll hear from me...this month. Now back to your regularly programmed Fall collection reviews.

Felder Felder

Not much to be had on the lovely designing ladies of Felder Felder unfortunately. Twins Daniela and Annette like to keep things elusive it seems, but their design style is bold and beautiful. They will be a part of Gen Art's Fresh Faces in September so keep an ear to the ground. This is their sophomore collection and I certainly think they can put a notch in the crowded arena that is fashion.

Sunshine & Shadow

Fall 2006 for Sunshine & Shadow is a lovely blend of their signature clean lines and urban charm. The details are subtle but graceful with keyholed tees, and tiny gold buttons on hoodies, sweaters, and shirts. Check out the collection here.

Vena Cava- FW 2006

Vena Cava show us why they are so well loved with their Fall 2006 collection. Hand drawn prints, a shot of charm, and lady like shapes. Love them all over again.

Lu. Jewelry

Take a look at Lu. Jewelry. A beautiful collection of what I might term "urban organic" pieces. That is...free form shapes with a bit of an edge no? Must be the New Yorker in me. Enjoy.

Gara Danielle

There are a few things about this collection that just speak to me; I'm not sure if it's the tones that hint of my favorite colors (red, brown, orange) or the way they seem to be inspired by different cultures (wire wrapping and horn/wood accents). All the same designer Gara Rakow does something many designers strive to achieve; create a collection that is at once individual and trendy. Check out the full collection on her site (also available for purchase) and find these pieces at shopbop.

Sutana

Don't ever say nothing good comes out of the midwest; well fashion at least. Sutana takes care of that myth with a lovely collection of dresses, skirts, and blouses. Utilizing her strength in knitwear, most of the collection is comprised of knit dresses layered over slips and peekaboo ruffled tops. Flattering, flowing, and feminine indeed. See the collection in full here or a few choice pieces at stars and infinite darkness.

Matthew Williamson- FW 2006

Matthew Williamson hits the Fall runway once again proving that color and pattern knows no season. This collection explores a range of patterns, including an aztec inspired printed silk and a updated tye dyed look. Take a look at fall here and don't be surprised if you suddenly want a reason to wear a tiered silk dress.

Jeremy Laing- Fall Winter 2006

I've revisted Jeremy Laing for Fall only to be once again blown away by his concept of structure. You may remember me writing about Jeremy's spring collection; his inspiration from cubism is so evident yet he creates flowing, feminine shapes. Take a look at the Fall collection here.

Graham & Spencer

The designers behind the well loved Velvet tees have brought a whole new dimension to the contemporary market with Graham & Spencer. Filling a need for a young contemporary look with a luxurious take on design, Jenny and Toni are launching their namesake this fall. The shapes are mature, the materials are soft and relaxed yet serious, and the look is still fresh. Well done ladies; it sits well in the market but many of the items I can see including a wide group of consumers. Now maybe moms can stop wearing their daughters clothing; amazing how that took such a turn for the worse. Ah well, I digress. Check out the collection here or find a great sampling at shopbop.

images courtesy: shopbop

Bulga

Ah, yes an old standby by now but we love Bulga don't we. I thought I'd check in and see what Natalia is up to for Fall 2006. A splash of pastel was a pleasant surprise but mainly because it was in shades of fall...yumm. The well known "butterfly" is back but I'm loving the clean sort of half moon designs; as usual updated on the classics.


just for kicks....uh woofs.

Hollie Ten

If you haven't heard of Hollie Ten it's definitely worth checking out. Costume designer/ stylist Hollie takes her imagination to work with her already much loved collection of jewelry. Hollie is known for her feminine yet bold pieces, often combining materials like lace and wood (see above) , horn and gold with sequins, etc. This is such a must see in my book, so please check out the collection at Project Las Vegas. See more of the Fall collection here.

Ann Cherico

It's the finds like this that keep me going as a researcher extraordinaire...ok fine a blogger. Ann Cherico designs this impressive collection of jewelry; her other claim to fame? Her twice great uncle was surrealist painter Giorgio de Chirico, which means she pretty much had no choice but to be darn good. Ah, the pressure. Her collection features a blend of materials: gold, brass, bone, horn, and gemstones through which she strives to create a balance between masculine and feminine, organic and synthetic. Very simply put, it struck me as pretty and edgy and just plain lovely, but who am I to mess with the artist in her. Ann will also be showcasing her collection at Project Las Vegas.

Aaneta

I was checking out Aaneta and my first thought was that it had a bit of an artisanal quality to it; braiding, tonal hardware, and the washed leather all add to the look. Reading a little further I find out that the mother-daughter team are from Uruguay and design with a distinct South American look. I think it has a bit of a different feel while keeping with the contemporary look. The spring collection will be showing at Project in Las Vegas, check out the Fall collection here.

Spoken Clothing

Anita Bacic formerly designed for movie sets and it definitely shows in Spoken Clothing. This collection is very animanted and tells a really saleable story I think, Anita caters to women who can get dolled up but still remain independent and free spirited. It looks like this may be a first launch so I think it's definitely worth checking out; the collection will be at WWD Magic in the contemporary area CO15516. Photos are a little fuzzy so take a look here to see the full collection.

Thakoon

Born in Thailand and raised in Nebraska, designer Thakoon Panichgul has plenty of inspiration to influence his collections. What you might expect though is far from what Thakoon sees when constructing a garment; his most prevalent inspiration is the luxury of the past, but don't call this line vintage. He makes it a point to be 'forward-looking while respectuful of the past' creating a collection that is decidely modern. Expect to hear his name soon as he's up for a CFDA award, I'll keep you posted if he wins. In the meantime he's not doing too shabby at all, the collection can be found at Barney's among other high end retailers.

Love Brigade

If I may be so poetic as to crown Love Brigade the champions of soulful artistic impression. Yeah, I know I'm a little extra here but check this out. How does one epitomize "promoting a new world order based on the liberation of love, and the ideal of togetherness"? By designing a collection that gathers the romance of bygone eras, the frayed essence of the artist, and the independent spirit of the punk in all of us. Waxing poetic still? Well I can't help it, in truth not many people know how to design around a theory and these guys know what they are about and stick to it. The collection is comprised of separates (skirts, tops) , jewlery, and a few accessories. Thanks for emailing me Alyssa, and love the styling and photoshoot!

Maya Prass

"If commercial trends are the main road, I'm taking the sidewalk"- Maya Prass

I thought I might surprise you guys today with a trip to South Africa. Designer Maya Prass caught my attention with her collection and I'm a new die hard fan. Described in short as a riot of color, Maya's clothing emphasizes layers of texture and pattern to create a striking collection. The best part is that Maya takes on only what she can do herself; starting with her materials to the details each piece has her hand in it. I think I may have noted something suggesting overseas buyers are welcome, so contact Maya here to learn more (click on the little phone next to the mirror).

Mike & Chris- FW 2006

Take a look at Mike & Chris for Fall 2006. Their version of the classic comfort pieces are taken to another level for fall and it's incredible. The collection is a great juxtaposition between easy, carefree items with a very mature structured look. My personal take is that this is one of the few collections on the contemporary market that has truly carved a niche; they've taken an everyday item and tweaked in such a way that they can cater to the same market and develop an entirely new one. And most of all it's a time when girls just want to be girls. Love it!

...is maroon/eggplant on the radar for Fall because I think it's going to be found in my closet. yumm.